Dog Training - Training Devices, Tools Not Substitutes
Dog Training - Training Devices, Tools Not Substitutes
The creativity of trainers and those who supply them with additional tools is never-ending. To the new or casual trainer there appears a dizzying array of devices. Though many are useful, they shouldn’t be viewed as substitutes for training knowledge.
Before using any of the tools discussed below, be sure your dog is in good health. Even the gentlest of collars or training regimes can do harm if the dog has a skin sore or twisted dew claw.
Clickers
An excellent attention-getting device, the clicker is a palm-sized, hand-held plastic and metal unit which emits a loud ‘click-clack’ noise when pressed and released. It can save a lot of wear on the trainers voice and is distinctive and readily audible, even against common background noise.
The trainer can use a clicker to draw the attention of a distracted dog. It’s more commonly used, though, as a reward or ‘begin’ sound when the animal exhibits desired behavior or to start a behavior.
Leashes and Collars
The variety of leashes available is astounding, running the gamut from two-foot control leashes, usually of nylon or leather, to the 30-foot extendable-retractable nylon cord type.
For near work, such as training ’sit’, ’stay’ (for example, ‘don’t run after the cat’ or ‘don’t go out the door before me’) the two to four foot leash is an excellent tool. The extendable leash is useful only by trainers who want to obey their dog. The human (whether male or female) should always be the ‘alpha male’ of the pack and the alpha always leads.
Collars come in a variety of buckle, snap, nylon, leather combinations. Provided the snaps and nylon are good quality they can be fully strong enough for even large dogs. They should be adjusted carefully, though, so they don’t slip off easily when the dog moves a head toward the ground and away to escape.
This trainer is adamantly opposed to spike collars - which can easily damage a smaller dog and tend to engender fear even in larger ones. Similarly, choke collars are discouraged. Dogs have very strong neck muscles, but a sharp tug on the front of the throat can bruise or even collapse a trachea. Also, too often choke collars are put on backwards (an easy mistake to make), which makes them counter-productive and dangerous.
Vests
Similar to leashes, chest halter leashes and even full vests can help to strengthen the trainers advantage while avoiding excessive pressure on the dog’s throat.
The potential downside is that the animal experiences no discomfort from pulling, so this limits training completely to positive re-enforcement. Originally designed to be used with seeing-eye and other aid dogs, the chest-halter can encourage pulling - the opposite of the usual goal.
Nevertheless, for those who need extra control over a strong dog or when regular collars and leashes won’t serve they’re valuable.
Muzzles
For short-term barking and biting control muzzles may sometimes be helpful or even necessary. The downside to using one is the dog never learns through other means to suppress barking. The muzzle becomes a substitute for the more difficult, long-term solution of obeying ‘no-bark’ commands.
There are dozens of other dog-related items: no-bark collars, electric fences, chemical sprays, head collars, etc. But these are as much control devices as training tools.
And, of course, there are the training tools that remain perpetual and highly effective favorites: love and respect. Treat your dog as you would a loving companion and it will be much easier to produce desired behavior.
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One Response to “Dog Training - Training Devices, Tools Not Substitutes”
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By spike collar, if you mean the “prong” collar, you are slightly misinformed! In the proper hands, a prong collar will NOT hurt a small dog. I stress… in the right hands! And they will never bruise, cut, damage or collapse the throat, trachea or neck.
Obviously, proper training is essential, you are right there. In our training, we desensitize the dog to the collar, meaning it never gets a correction with it on for the first week or so. The owner simply makes the dog associate it with good things (playing fetch, toys, treats, feeding, playing), so that when it comes time for training with it, he will never fear it. This process never stops - even after the prong is being used for corrections, it always has to remain a positive thing - playing with it on, eating, receiving praise and treats, etc.
I mostly agree with you about the choke collars though. Because so many people put them on incorrectly, once tightened, they cannot loosen again, chocking your dog in the process. Also, choke collars always put the blow to the same point on the dog’s neck, which will cause discomfort, possible injury and at the very least, a damaged coat.
All that you say about the potential harm to a dog using both of these collars I agree with…. when an untrained owner “experiments” with them on their dog!!!!
Shannon Pennings
http://www.precision-dog-training.com