Dog Training - Your Dog Around Horses

Dog Training - Your Dog Around Horses

You’ve undoubtedly noticed that your dog is much smaller than a horse. (Well, most are anyway.) Nevertheless, most horses are much more frightened of dogs than the reverse. That creates unique problems - for dog, horse and the person who has to govern both.

In this case, unlike other animal training areas, it helps very little to start the interaction out when both animals are young. Young horses are at least as skittish as older ones, and are often accompanied by a mare. Neither is naturally fond of nor curious about puppies. To a horse, nearly everything but their owners and a few other horses are threats - at least until they’re mature.

But there are many circumstances where dogs and horses interact successfully. Whether the dog owner is a regular visitor to barns or riding schools, or whether the dog lives on the premises both can get along well.

Always keep puppies restrained around horses until they’ve learned what to do and what to avoid. A leash, for at least the first several weeks of training, is essential. And ensure that the horse is not in a position to rear or run where the dog can be injured.

Training a dog around horses involves a series of separate, but easily learned behaviors.

First, the dog has to learn to respect a boundary - whether a paddock with metal bars a dog can easily slip through, or a series of stalls, or other enclosure. Begin by using a leash and collar and make the boundary training part of a more general walk where you train the dog to follow you. Follow you, not lead you.

As the dog approaches the boundary, its sense of smell will cause it naturally to be curious about the horse. Allow the dog to approach - but not move beyond - the boundary. If it tries to breach the boundary, tug on the leash and give a sharp ‘No!’ or ‘Stop’. (’Stay’ is a different behavior, requiring a different - and unique - command.)

Next, simultaneously really, any tendency to bark needs to be suppressed. Barking frequency varies with breed and individual temperament, but horses aren’t discriminating. When seemingly threatened, they react - and a horse’s reaction to barking is not usually something pleasant.

Dogs, like horses, are pack animals and will usually follow the lead of the alpha (leader). Unless, they’re trying to be the alpha. This drive for dominance, coupled sometimes with fear or simply the desire to warn of a threat, can lead to barking.

Reinforce your ‘top dog’ status, by a sharp jerk sideways on the leash, accompanied by a sharp verbal ‘No bark!’. Jerk sideways, not back, in order to get the dog’s attention without risking injury to the throat. Dogs have very strong neck muscles, but throats can still be too easily bruised by excessive force.

If the dog insists on barking, remove him from the area and try again another day. Don’t give up too easily, though. You don’t want to train the dog that every time he barks ‘Danger’, you obey by fleeing.

As with any dog training regimen, patience and consistency are the keys to success. Be firm, but not abusive, and execute the same unique command and physical movement regularly for each associated behavior taught.

Dogs Training - Training Your Dog Not To Bite

Dogs Training - Training Your Dog Not To Bite

According to the CDC (Center for Disease Control), dogs bite more than 4.7 million people per year. Law suits, medical bills and sometimes dog euthanasia are common results from this unwanted - and often avoidable - behavior.

As with any dog training issue, how easy or difficult it is to train a dog not to bite will vary with the breed, age and individual temperament of the dog. But there are some common techniques that will usually help suppress biting behavior.

Wherever possible, start young. Puppies have a natural inclination to mouth and nip. Though it’s often encouraged by owners who understandably see the behavior as cute, human restraint is a prerequisite to dog restraint. Good - and bad - habits start young.

Beyond about the age of four weeks, puppies can begin to learn simple commands. When the puppy moves his mouth to bite, a gentle, but firm ‘No!’ followed by a slight squeeze of the muzzle can help.

Be careful not to cause the puppy to bite its tongue, though. Be especially careful not to squeeze hard or too high up on the muzzle. Dogs have sensitive and delicate odor receptors high up inside the nose. You never want to damage a dog’s ability to smell.

The squeeze isn’t to punish, but to inform. The goal is to help the young dog associate the verbal command with something it can understand at that age - discomfort. Most dogs naturally dislike having their muzzles squeezed at any age.

Along with verbal discouragement and gentle physical restraint or reminders, socializing your dog - as young and often as possible - can help develop calm and confident dogs. Fearful dogs, not used to strangers (whether human or animal), are much more prone to biting behavior.

Expose the dog to other (non-aggressive) dogs. Differences in smell and looks are triggers that can cause dogs to become wary. Introducing them to variety at a young age can help discourage this territorial response.

Most dogs will naturally inhibit biting when playing with litter mates. They nip, but learn early not to press hard. Take advantage of this by ‘widening’ the pack to include family members, other pets and frequent visitors.

Restrain your pet at first when introducing animals from other households. Restrain the other animal as well. Let them approach slowly and sniff or carry out other natural behavior.

Look for body tension, snarling, erect ears and other indicators of oncoming aggression. Make the dog sit, stroke its back and put out your hand to the other animal then convey the smell to your pet. Then allow them to interact.

Dogs normally learn bite inhibition by four and a half months, but don’t be discouraged if it doesn’t happen that quickly. Breeds vary and so do individuals. Older dogs, ones not trained early to suppress biting or not socialized, will naturally be harder to train.

Some dogs will never be fully trained not to want to bite. Part of training involves training people, too. Make sure any such dog is unable to reach other people or animals. And, make sure that people are informed not to try to interact with the dog.

Gradual, persistent, patient training will usually pay off in a calmer, more playful pet. Which, despite the effort involved, is better than paying off lawsuits.

Dog Training - Purebred Training

Dog Training - Purebred Training

The term ‘purebred’ is relative. No breed has been so isolated that it’s never mated with another.

But taken over the last hundred years or so, there are populations of Golden Retriever, German Shepherds and many others that have bred only with their own kind. As with any inbreeding program, the results tend to produce extremes, both good and bad.

The bad aspect is that, for technical reasons, genes that lead to undesirable conditions will occur more frequently the narrower the population. Instances of hip dysplasia in Golden Retrievers are more likely to be passed on if programs are careless. Fortunately, they rarely are.

The other extreme produces show dogs or simply companions that tend to have a higher capacity for learning and stronger bodies. But even in these ‘better’ types, training is challenging.

Along with superior physical capacity comes the confidence to tackle larger obstacles, the need for more interaction, and - there’s no other way to put it - a more finicky character. Mutts, on the whole, are more relaxed than purebreds.

As a consequence, be prepared to commit extra time and attention to the standard ’sit’, ’stay’, ‘come’ basics. Expect a greater capacity for attention, but also a higher likelihood of willfulness. Purebreds tend to be more independent.

Both mixed and purebreds love exercise and play. But the purebred will often want to play ‘his’ way. Increased repetition and a refusal to compromise will help you maintain and reinforce your alpha (leader) status. Fortunately, as can be seen from show trials on television, purebreds can exhibit a wide variety of complex behavior flawlessly.

That behavior comes, though, from the many hours over many months or years of focused training. A superior potential is just that - a capacity. To bring out that capacity, focus on the dog’s strengths.

One well-known woman on the show circuit has trained her companion to perform a complex dance routine lasting several minutes. The dog backs up, shoots through her legs, winds around in a circle, and much more but always in a pattern. Taking what would be random movements and turning them into choreography requires breaking down the routine into short segments.

Focus on a specific, say moving backwards as you move forward. Face the dog, who starts in a sit position. Then ‘up’ and step forward. Even highly intelligent dogs don’t spontaneously back up on command. Encourage the behavior by holding a treat or toy above the head and slightly beyond the eyes, moving forward in steps.

Try one step, then two, then six, then twelve. Repeat the exercise daily until the dog has it completely automated and executes flawlessly.

Accompany your movement with a unique tone and word combination. Praise lavishly for correct execution and display firm patience, not harsh condemnation, for errors.

Consistency will eventually lead to the desired results.

How Much Exercise Does Your Yorkshire Terrier Need?

How Much Exercise Does Your Yorkshire Terrier Need?

Yorkshire Terriers are extremely energetic dogs. They are so energetic that you may not think that they need any additional exercise. This isn’t necessarily so. While he may be energetic, he may still not be getting the proper amount of exercise. But, how much exercise does he need outside of his normal energetic activities?

Ideally, you should walk your Yorkshire Terrier at least once a day, for about thirty minutes. If you can fit two thirty minute walks in a day, it will be even better for the Yorkie and yourself. He should be walked on a leash, and you should have two or three established routes that you follow. Once he knows those routes, however, he will still need to be on a leash.

Your Yorkie needs time and space to run. Playing indoors is great, but he also needs outdoor exercise, aside from walking. If you have a fenced in yard, this is great. Otherwise, take him to a park where dogs are allowed to run free. Play chase with him, throw his ball, or throw a small Frisbee for him. Make sure that he gets time and space to run at least once a week for thirty minutes to an hour.

Many show Yorkies are taught to run obstacle courses for Rally competitions. Whether you will show your Yorkie or not doesn’t matter. You should set up some type of obstacle course in your yard and teach your Yorkie to run it for the exercise if nothing else. The obstacle course should include jumping, running, balance, and crawling. This gives your Yorkie an allover workout.

Allow him to use his keen senses and exercise those as well. Hide his toys, and allow him to sniff them out and find them. Hide and make small noises and let him use his ears and nose to find you. Senses need exercise just like the bones and muscles do.

Yorkshire Terriers are just like other animals in terms of expressing pain or discomfort. When you exercise your dog, you should be on the lookout for potential problems that he may be trying to hide. For example, he may not jump as vigorously as he once did. This could be age, but it could also be that he is feeling pain when he lands. If your Yorkie avoids exercises that he once did without a problem, you need to find out why. Take him to the veterinarian.

Yorkshire Terriers are small and cute. When many people think of these dogs, they picture them sitting in a lap, poking their head out of a purse, or riding in the car with their owner. There is a great deal more to these dogs than that. Again, these dogs have a great deal of energy, and they need exercise. Make sure that your Yorkie is getting the exercise that he needs, and discuss the amount of exercise that your particular Yorkshire Terrier needs with his veterinarian.

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Nutro Natural Choice Dog Food

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Natural Dog Food from Australia

Natural Dog Food from Australia

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Spaying and Neutering for Yorkshire Terriers

Spaying and Neutering for Yorkshire Terriers

In most cases, when you acquire a Yorkshire Terrier from a breeder, that puppy will already be spayed or neutered. There are many reasons why breeders spay and neuter the puppies before selling them. Even if your Yorkshire Terrier puppy is not spayed or neutered before coming to live with you, in most cases, the breeder will have a contract with you that require you to have the dog altered by the time that it is a certain age.

Spaying and neutering is usually done in the veterinarian’s office. You must call ahead for an appointment, and you will be asked to prevent your Yorkshire Terrier from eating or drinking anything after midnight the night before. Some veterinarians ask that you bring the animal to the office the evening before the procedure, where he is kept in a kennel overnight.

Your Yorkshire Terrier will be put to sleep with anesthesia, and will feel nothing during the procedure. He will be required to stay at the veterinarian’s office until the anesthesia has worn off, at which time you will be allowed to bring him home. In many cases, by the time you pick him or her up from the veterinarians office, you won’t be able to tell, by the way the animal acts, that any procedure has been performed at all. Dogs and cats get over it rather quickly.

If your Yorkshire Terrier is not already spayed or neutered before it leaves the breeder, you should plan to do this when the dog is between the ages of six and nine months. It isn’t wise to wait any longer than this, although it can be done earlier.

By spaying or neutering your Yorkie, you are actually doing the dog a favor. Research has shown that altered animals tend to live longer and remain healthier than those who are not altered. An altered animal is not at risk for many types of cancer. This will also prevent females from going into heat, which can be excruciating for you and the animal, and it will prevent males from marking their territory with urine sprays all over your home as well.

After your Yorkshire Terriers procedure, your veterinarian will give you instructions as to the care of the site of the incision. Sometimes female dogs are given surgical collars to wear, which will prevent them from licking or biting the sutures. For the most part, however, it is wise to leave the animal alone after you bring him home. He or she will not want to be in your lap, or have you all over him. Let him come to you when he is ready.

Dog Training - Stop the Begging!

Dog Training - Stop the Begging!

Tastes among humans differ, but one thing is constant: your dog will eat just about anything off the table you give it. That may be fine when it’s just you and the family. But when you have guests over, it can be embarrassing. Here are some tips for how to get pooch to stay away during meal time.

The first step is not to start a bad habit.

Dog’s have a natural hierarchy with the alpha at the top, followed by the beta, and so on. In the wild, the alpha eats first, then food is shared by the rest - once the alpha ‘gives permission’. Permission can be denied with a growl or a snap of the teeth.

When you act as the alpha - as you should at all times where your dog is concerned - you control access to the food. But being too easy going gives the signal that it’s open season at the table. If you don’t start the habit they may start it for you, but it doesn’t pay to encourage them.

The next step is to be consistent. If you don’t want the dog to beg for food, don’t feed it sometimes, then deny it at others. The dog has no way in advance to know which times are appropriate and which aren’t. You’ll become frustrated at having to repeatedly try to make the distinction for him and order him away.

Dogs operate by scent. When they smell food, that’s a signal to approach. If you allow them to act on that, a pleasant experience (for them) becomes a bad habit (from your perspective) very quickly.

Human food is often less than ideal for dogs anyway. Most of it is digestible, but it isn’t balanced for dogs the way commercial dog food is. The ideal dog diet depends on a carefully controlled mixture of fat, protein and other categories of food. The percentages are tested and blended by commercial dog food manufacturers. There’s no way for you to duplicate that at the dinner table.

You can train your dog not to beg for food basically the same way you would train them to perform any other desired behavior. Try voice commands ‘go’, ’sit’ and the rest. This is not the time, however, to reward obedience with a treat, since that’s counterproductive. It only reinforces the link between food and behavior at the wrong time.

If voice commands prove inadequate, you can try leash training. This may require some creativity if you are already at the table. You can wrap a leash around a sturdy pole in the dining room. As you tug on the leash toward you, if it’s wrapped around the pole, it pulls the dog away. Take care not to bruise the dog’s throat by getting carried away.

If you have help, you can sit at the table and start to eat, while another holds the dog a few feet away by the leash. As the dog starts to come toward the table, you give the command and they tug the leash. Dogs learn quickly this way to associate the verbal command with the physical restraint.

As with any training exercise, patience and persistence are essential. But sooner or later, they will respond, even when they smell food. They learn in the wild, they can learn even more easily in the home.

Nutro Natural Food

Nutro Natural Food

Is essentially made of natural ingredients. These ingredients are made of superior quality. Nutro natural dog foods are known for their quality. Your dog is sure to remain healthy and fine with nutro natural dog food products. These foods are sure to deliver ultra nutrition to your dog. It is an easy way to keep your dog healthy.

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Dog Training - Housebreaking Your Puppy

Dog Training - Housebreaking Your Puppy

No training is more basic for pet owners than that first important lesson: Do it outside!

Teaching your pet to eliminate outside the home, not in it, usually starts between six and eight weeks of age. Dogs as young as four weeks have been started on the program, but at that age few have the muscular control to succeed.

Like any dog training regimen, trainer patience is as important as the dog’s temperament. ‘Sit’, ’stay’ and other behaviors can often be learned in a few days. ‘Potty’ training typically takes weeks - sometimes as short as two, often a month or more.

As with other learned behaviors, it helps to watch for signs of the desired actions and enforce and direct them with a voice command followed by praise. In this case that technique works even more to the trainer’s advantage, since all dogs will naturally eliminate. The trick is to get them to do it when and where you want!

Watch for circling or squatting, then pick up the pup, say ‘outside’ and dash outside. The puppy may circle some more, but will often squat immediately. As it begins, say ‘Go potty’ (or some other unique phrase) in a clear, firm (but not angry) voice. Wait until it’s finished and praise lavishly.

You won’t always be able to catch the puppy about to begin, but don’t become angry or impatient when the dog eliminates indoors. It takes time for the dog to learn to tell you it’s time to ‘go outside’. It also takes time for the muscles needed to control bladder and bowels to develop.

Young dogs need to eliminate every 2-3 hours, on average. If you haven’t spotted pre-elimination behavior within that time, take the dog outside anyway. Issue the command ‘Go potty’ and wait. At first, usually, the dog will have no clue what you want.

Again, even when outside, it helps to wait and watch for the desired behavior then issue the command. That helps the dog associate the command with the behavior. If the dog hasn’t gone after a few minutes and a few ‘Go potty’ commands, take it back inside for an hour. Of course, if you spot the pre-elimination behavior in less time, go outside again immediately.

Dogs have a surprising ability to quickly learn what their ‘alpha’ (the leader of the pack) wants. This is almost always accomplished by associating a verbal command with behavior, followed by praise. Punishment is usually counter-productive, and nowhere more so than in waste elimination training. Never rub a dog’s nose in waste.

Paper and/or crate training is preferred by some. A pup can be trained to go on a newspaper, or on one of the chemically treated pads designed for the purpose. Some small breeds that live all day in the home may not need to go outside at all.

The technique has a couple of downsides however. Unlike cats, dogs will rarely go in a perfumed litter box. Newspapers (even with the top layer removed after the dog goes) will eventually create an unpleasant smell in the house.

Also, long before the odor becomes unattractive to humans, dogs can smell their own distinctive aroma. They don’t find it unattractive - quite the opposite. And that’s the problem.

Dogs that are paper trained will often prefer to eliminate indoors. Sometimes they’ll miss the paper by only an inch, creating a mess to clean up.

Once the odor is in the carpet, the dog will often seek that spot out as its proper ‘place to go’. This makes training the dog to eliminate outside even more difficult. Best to suffer a few accidents than to create a hard-to-overcome habit.

Patience, praise and consistency are the keys to any dog training. Elimination training is the first test for you and your dog.

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